Standard or Compact, Now That Is A Question
Standard or Compact, Now That Is A Question

Written by: Nate Loyal

When looking at new equipment for your bike do the gears ever come to mind? We have so many options out there from 11/23 to 12/27 cassettes or standard and compact cranksets. What do you go with? Not all of us live in flat land areas and more often than not the hills are calling to be ridden. So with that in mind what gearing is best suited for most of us to use? It all comes down to efficiency and cadence plays a big roll in that. Even if you’re not racing and just riding to stay in shape and having fun on your bike a cadence around 85 to 95rpm is ideal and a good starting point for riding on the flats. If you are not sure where your cadence is it might be a good idea to get a basic cycling computer that has cadence on it. These can start at around $40. If you find it difficult at first to pedal this fast don’t worry. Give it a week or two and your body will start to adapt and soon it will become second nature. It may take some time but going a little slower and easier can help greatly.

Now getting into the hills is where gearing becomes very important. A lot of times, unless you’re a fast climber, we find ourselves pushing a hard gear with a low cadence. This is effectively like lifting weights and not very efficient. The problem with this at times is that we are already in our easiest gear! In a perfect world it would be great to have the same cadence as we do on flat gound. Well it’s not always perfect but if we can at least get to 80+rpms our efficiency will go up and take strain and fatigue away from our joints and muscles. If you are using standard gearing, most likely a 53 tooth big chainring and 39 tooth small chainring, a cost effective way to help maintain optimum cadence is by changing out your cassette. The gear ratio I suggest quite often is the 12/27 cassette. This still gives us plenty of harder gears for the flats and decents but also gives us a little relief going up hills. Since most of you are using 9, 10 or 11speed now, the spacing between gears won’t be a huge jump either.

If the 12/27 still isn’t enough help in improving cadence and you’re still grinding up the hills, I recomend the compact crank. This is a different crankset altogether and the big chainring is a 50T and usually a 34t small chainring. This smaller chainring provides us more easier gears that will help make spinning a higher cadence up hills much easier. So instead of having to press hard on the pedals with each stroke you can be pushing lightly on the pedals but much more frequently. As with working on a higher cadence on the flats, this too will take some dedication but the benefits will turn into huge efficiency payoffs. Now if you still want to go hard up the hills you have plenty of gears to do this.
Standard -vs- Comapct Crank
I’m sure some of you are wondering, “what will this compact crank do for my top end speed when I go down hills?” If maintaining a 36-38mph pace you can still use the compact. Yes the 50 is smaller and you do lose some top end speed by going to the compact but by going with a different cassette, you can have the best of both worlds. By blending an 11/23 and 12/25 cassette to make an 11/25, you can have your cake and eat it too. Because when you run the compact with the 50/34 chainrings and an 11/25 cassette you have gearing that is still easier than standard 53/39 and 12/27 gearing. With the top end the 50/11 combo is actually a BIGGER gear than the 53/12 combo. With that you now can spin easier than before up the hills and still being able to push the gear while rolling at 38+mph. Sure it takes some doing but as said before it can be well worth it!

- Nate Loyal
Cycling Coach and Bike Fit Specialist
Loyalcoaching.com

6 Responses to “Standard or Compact, Now That Is A Question”

  1. I am not sure I understand, maybe you could tell me. I have 2 chainrings 33t/50t. 10 gears 13t/25t. Is this a compact set?

    Thank you
    Tony

  2. Yes, the 50/33 is a compact. The term compact is to describe the bolt pattern the chainrings bolt on by.

  3. Nate,
    Is it also true that the crank “arm” (part that goes out to the pedal) is also smaller/shorter on a compact crank? Which in turn will make for a slower top speed? I believe I have a compact crank on my P2 and am looking for some more speed here in Kansas (flatlander).
    Thanks

  4. Hi Brandon,
    No, compact cranks come in the same arm lengths as standard. Compact only refers to the bolt spacing.
    With many tests, not done just by myself, over the years we have not found that by going to a longer crank arm gives the rider more power. Just as long as they are on the correct length for their leg length.

    – Nate Loyal

  5. Nate

    What is the best way to shift from Standard to Compact, is it by buying a new chainset with crank, or just the wheels themselves?
    Ebay seems to have complete chainsets for sale, not so much on offer buy way of wheels.

    The basic question. What should I look for (key words for google search) when looking to shift from Standard to Compact having the best of both worlds. I am relatively tall and heavy – and suffering uphills and willing to sacrifice some downhill speed.

    Looking forward to hearing from you

  6. Going from standard to compact is simple by just changing out the crankset (to compact crankset) and then adjusting the front derailleur. If you are using the same model cranksets then you might not even have to switch out the bottom bracket.

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Sat, Apr 11, 2009 5:00 am
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